Jason Lee likes to think the Altamaha River had a hand in sparing Georgia’s largest known virgin stand of tidal-swamp bald cypress and water tupelo trees.

The theory is a flood waylaid logging on Lewis Island in the early 1900s. The 5-10 acres of ancient trees that hadn’t been cut offered too little profit for crews to return. A rusty cable engine that once dragged downed trees to water sits abandoned on Lewis, giving credence to Lee’s conjecture.

1900s cable engine abandoned on Lewis Island (DNR)

Abandoned 1900s cable engine (DNR)

“So that’s what saved that tiny bit of old growth on freshwater tidal swamplands on our coast,” he said, adding with a chuckle: “The Altamaha said, ‘Let’s keep this stand.’”

Whatever the reason, the DNR Wildlife Conservation Section program manager is one of many who are grateful the site was saved. The state has owned and managed the 5,600-acre island about 3 miles upriver from Darien since 1972, the first acquisition of the Georgia Heritage Trust. This month also marks the 50th anniversary of Lewis Island’s designation as a National Natural Landmark in 1974. The National Park Service program recognizes and encourages conservation of lands that best illustrate the nation’s biological and geological heritage, according to Carolyn Davis, the program’s Southeast Region coordinator.

Lewis Island certainly fits.

Bald cypress reaches skyward (Carolyn Davis/NPS)

Bald cypress reaches skyward (Carolyn Davis/NPS)

First, the island is part of a narrow band of coastal lands where rivers and creeks are freshwater but levels are influenced by ocean tides – rising and falling twice a day – as well as upstream rainfall. Frequent flooding on Lewis, which can be covered by a foot of water or more, helps “create a distinct vegetative habitat,” Lee said.

Second, in large part because of the tide-powered flushes of freshwater, the region was a center of rice cultivation from the 18th to the early 20th century. Much of the land was cleared and farmed, and other areas logged. Except for parts of the interior of Lewis Island. Some of the bald cypresses there are 6 to 7 feet in diameter and estimated to be at least 1,100 years old.

“It’s primeval,” Lee said. “The trees that were cut have regrown and are now old, big trees. So, you’re walking along in what appears to be pristine habitat with what you think is old-growth … and then you come upon this stand of giants in the middle of the floodplain.”

Visitors to the island, part of Altamaha River Wildlife Management Area, are likely few because it is remote, wet (if not underwater), rife with cottonmouths and accessible only by boat. “It’s truly an island,” said David Mixon, the region’s DNR Game Management supervisor. “You won’t walk to Lewis.”

Lee also noted that Lewis’ virgin trees are spread out. For people unfamiliar with the tract or tree species, it can be “hard to know when you’re in the heart of the old growth.”

He last explored the island with Davis and former DNR biologist Jacob Thompson in 2013. Davis explained that National Natural Landmarks can be owned by anyone, from governments to private landowners. The designation, based on a scientific assessment, is honorary: It doesn’t provide protection. Yet by identifying these sites, she said, “The hope is that people will want to protect them.”

In Georgia, they do. Some might say the Altamaha does, as well.

Swampy view of Lewis Island: Visiting, bring waders (Alan Cressler)

Visiting the island? Bring waders. (Alan Cressler)

EXPLORING LEWIS

  • Needed: boat, waders, hunting/fishing license or DNR lands pass, caution (cottonmouths are numerous) and experience with river/tide levels and wildland navigation (or have a guide who is). Also helpful: knowledge of coastal forests and tree species.
  • Island is about 5 miles upriver from Darien
  • Trailhead (unmarked) is approximately three quarters of a mile southeast of the intersection of Studhorse and Pico creeks

NATIONAL NATURAL LANDMARKS

  • Program established in 1962, administered by National Park Service (watch)
  • Recognizes and encourages conservation of sites that best illustrate the nation’s biological and geological heritage, from old-growth forest to troves of prehistoric fossils
  • Sites are determined via scientific evaluation are deemed nationally significant based on condition, illustrative character, rarity, diversity and value to science and education
  • Participation is voluntary; ownership varies from pubic to private; public access not required
  • 604 landmarks in U.S., 11 in Georgia
Late DNR Wildlife Conservation Section Chief Jon Ambrose by a giant bald cypress on Lewis Island in 1992 (Chuck Rabolli/DNR)

Late DNR Wildlife Conservation Section Chief Jon Ambrose by one of Lewis Island’s larger cypress in 1992 (Chuck Rabolli/DNR)

GEORGIA LANDMARKS

Listed by county, name and status:

  • Charlton, Clinch: Okefenokee Swamp (national wildlife refuge)
  • Chatham: Wassaw Island (NWR)
  • Columbia: Heggie’s Rock (Nature Conservancy preserve)
  • Effingham: Ebenezer Creek Swamp (private)
  • Emanuel: Camp E.F. Boyd Natural Area (Nature Conservancy preserve – called Ohoopee Dunes Preserve – designated a National Natural Landmark in 1974 with Lewis Island)
  • Floyd: Marshall Forest (Nature Conservancy preserve; Georgia’s first National Natural Landmark, designated in 1966)
  • Harris: Cason J. Callaway Memorial Forest (part of Callaway Resort and Gardens)
  • McIntosh: Lewis Island Tract (part of Altamaha WMA)
  • Rockdale: Panola Mountain (state park)
  • Tattnall: Big Hammock Natural Area (WMA)
  • Thomas: Wade Tract Preserve (private; managed by Tall Timbers)
Top: DNR’s Jason Lee, right, and former DNR wildlife biologist Jacob Thompson check out an ancient bald cypress tree on Lewis Island in 2013. (Carolyn Davis/NPS)